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SUMMARY:Waves and flows on a coral reef beach and in the adjoining lagoon 
 - Stephen Monismith\, Stanford University
DTSTART:20211202T130000Z
DTEND:20211202T140000Z
UID:TALK166600@talks.cam.ac.uk
CONTACT:Prof. John R. Taylor
DESCRIPTION:I will discuss observations of tidally varying wave-forced flo
 ws in the reef system on Ofu\, American Samoa\, a barrier reef and lagoon 
 system that appears “open” at low tide and “closed” at high tide. 
 At high tide\, the free surface pressure gradient nearly balances the radi
 ation stress gradient in the depth-integrated momentum equation. At depth\
 , there is an imbalance between these two forces\, generating an undertow 
 and flows that turn alongshore and\, for some of the time\, offshore\, beh
 avior similar to rip currents observed on beaches. At low tides\, the wave
  forcing drives purely onshore flows. In general\, wave transport (includi
 ng assumed roller behavior) is important to determining the total net tran
 sport. In both cases\, the vertical structure of this flow can be predicte
 d with some accuracy using the surf-zone model of Svendsen\, albeit with a
 n eddy viscosity that is proportional to the rms wave velocity.\nWhile the
  dynamically closed nature of the lagoon mostly suppresses cross-reef tran
 sport\, there is always some flow through the lagoon\, with the strongest 
  flows occurring at high tides and when the wave forcing is strongest.
LOCATION:MR5\, CMS
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