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SUMMARY:Three breaking solitary waves - Dr Yong Sung Park\, University of 
 Dundee
DTSTART:20141024T120000Z
DTEND:20141024T130000Z
UID:TALK53632@talks.cam.ac.uk
CONTACT:Aleksandra Przydrozna
DESCRIPTION:Motivated to understand the interaction between the successive
 ly breaking waves\, we measured detailed flow field using a train of three
  solitary waves breaking on a beach with 1/20 slope. The nominal wave heig
 ht of the waves is 43 mm in 200 mm depth in the constant depth region\, re
 sulting in the wave period of about 2 s. The waves were separated from one
  another by about 1.9 times the wave period and this separation time was c
 hosen so that intense interaction between the return flow of the preceding
  wave and the breaking incoming wave is ensured. By carefully studying the
  water surface profiles obtained from the six wave gauges as well as the r
 aw PIV images\, we learned that the intensity of the interaction is positi
 vely correlated with the undulations riding over the reflected wave. Those
  undulations results from the solitons that are generated during the colli
 sion between the return flow and the incoming wave.  These strong interact
 ions are the sources of the turbulence as measured in the flow field. Also
  we suggest that the gradient of the Froude number based on the depth-aver
 aged velocity and the total depth could be a robust breaking criterion bot
 h for the incoming wave and for the return flow. Furthermore\, we observed
  that the strong interaction incurs impressive particle resuspension into 
 the water body and this was quantitiavely visualised using the skewness of
  the vertical distribution of light intensity.
LOCATION:LR3B\, Inglis Building\, CUED.
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